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Re-Sealing of Stamped Concrete

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Re-Sealing Stamped Concrete

When your stamped concrete was installed, the last step was application of a clear concrete sealer. That sealer is designed to protect the concrete and the colors of your stamped concrete from fading, staining, etc. There is also a special grit additive in your sealer to help prevent slipping when the surface is wet.


We use a low gloss matte finish sealer for all stamped concrete installations including both our 2-color traditional and our multi-color, grouted stamped concrete style.


The solvent-based sealer is naturally color enhancing, i.e., it makes the colors a bit darker and richer than just before sealer is applied. This sealer always comes in a metal container and has a heavy odor during application. The odor should dissipate after a couple of hours. Remember to keep doors and windows closed during sealer application.


Solvent-based sealers have a life expectancy of about 2-4 years. We generally use a low gloss matte finish version of this sealer, however, there are also high gloss versions that we can use upon request.


Note: Several years ago, we used to offer an option for water-based sealer vs solvent-based sealer. We found that the water-based sealer was not providing enough protection, so we are now using a low gloss matte finish solvent-based sealer on all installations unless there are specific customer requests.


After a couple or few years, as the sealer starts to wear off, you should plan to re-apply the sealer using a compatible sealer.


How do you know when the sealer is wearing off? For solvent-based sealers, it will normally begin to look faded and dried out in various areas. It often gives a white or chalky look in the worn areas because the sealer is no longer there to enhance the colors. Water will no longer bead on the concrete as the sealer wears off.


Prepare the concrete area:

To apply the new sealer, we recommend 3 steps: power wash, dry, and apply the sealer. A regular garden hose would work, however, the best way to get a thorough cleaning prior to re-sealing is to use a power washer. A standard home-grade power washer (1500 psi, or so…) should do fine. Please be very careful when using a power washer, both for your own safety and to protect your stamped concrete! Use a fan tip nozzle and keep the nozzle a foot (12") or more away from the surface of the concrete so that you won't damage the surface.


If you are power washing multi-color, grouted stamped concrete with a water-based sealer, be even more careful with the power washer. If you don’t have much sealer left, the accent color stains can wash off. Always try a small test area first to be sure you are not doing any damage.


Once you have the surface clean, you must let it dry thoroughly, i.e., "bone dry". You can use a leaf blower as a drier or just let the sun dry it thoroughly for a couple of hours.


Before applying the sealer, double-check that there is no dirt, grease, or other debris on the surface, and be extra-sure that the concrete is 100% dry, even in the grout lines between the stones.


Apply the sealer:

Open the container, add the non-skid grit additive, and mix per manufacturer specs. Do not over-apply sealers. Two thin coats are always better than one thick coat.


Solvent-based sealers (clear with heavy odor): We typically use a paint roller on an extension pole to apply the sealer evenly to the surface. Dip the paint roller into the bucket of sealer, then apply. Do not pour the sealer directly onto the concrete. Instead, dip the roller into the bucket and apply it evenly to the concrete. Be sure to get the sealer in all grout lines and recesses of the stamp pattern, and spread it out evenly across the surface.


Let it dry for at least a few hours, but it's best to wait overnight before use.


Purchase the sealer and anti-slip additive:

Purchase a sufficient amount of sealer from your local contractor's building supply store; most of them sell retail to individual homeowners. Your sales rep at the supply store can help determine the quantity that you will need.


A few sources for sealer:

Pure Texture, Greensboro, NC (mail order): 336-698-9800

Pure Texture brand "Thermoplastic" solvent-based acrylic sealer (available in satin or gloss) or Pure Texture brand water-based sealer


White Cap Building Supply (formerly "Greenwald"), Springfield, VA: 703-912-5900


Virginia Contractors Supply, Manassas, VA: 703-368-2950

Super Diamond Clear, by Euclid Chemical Company, and Brickform Satin Seal


Handyman Concrete, Chantilly, VA: 703-437-7143 or 703-542-7100

Increte brand, Crystal Clear VOC, solvent-based sealer, and Increte brand water-based sealer


While at the supplier, also get a container of anti-slip grit additive to mix into the sealer. This is a specially manufactured material that looks like fine white sand and will provide a bit of texture or "grit" to the surface to help prevent slipping when it is wet.


Test First:

Always put sealer on a test area first, let it dry for a day or two to ensure no chemical reactions such as yellowing, bubbling, peeling, discoloration, etc.


Always follow the manufacturer instructions for the sealer, grit additive, and power equipment, including the power washer, blower, etc.


Always put a non-skid additive, grit into the sealer to help prevent slipping when wet. That is special material like shark-grip or another brand, available where you buy the sealer.


 

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